Thirty four years ago in August, 1976, we went to a new resort for our honeymoon—the Inn of the Mountain Gods, located in the ancestral home of the Mescalero Apaches, just outside Ruidoso, New Mexico. This week, to celebrate Noreen’s birthday, we returned to the Inn to see if the facility and the environs had improved over what we experienced then. The short answer is that everything was better even than we had remembered it.
One can have no doubt why this region was sacred to the Mescaleros. Driving out of El Paso the traveler sees mile after mile of desert, displaying every shade of grey and brown. Leaving Alamogardo, however, the road begins to climb, the hills turn into mountains, and green replaces brown. Then you catch a glimpse of Sierra Blanca, the 12,000 foot peak (site of the downhill area Ski Apache) which presides over these lands. The effect is magical indeed.
We dined looking at Sierra Blanca, and we left our bedroom drapes open to glance at it when we were in our room. One day we drove to the base of Ski Apache and hiked up onto the mountain to experience it that way as well.
We ran each morning across the lake from the hotel in the foothills of Sierra Blanca, and one morning were treated to a small herd of elk grazing on our trail through the woods. We learned later that the Mescaleros have a herd of approximately 4200 elk that they manage in the tribal lands. One night we tried a tenderloin of elk for dinner (verdict: sweet and delicious).
We ran each morning across the lake from the hotel in the foothills of Sierra Blanca, and one morning were treated to a small herd of elk grazing on our trail through the woods. We learned later that the Mescaleros have a herd of approximately 4200 elk that they manage in the tribal lands. One night we tried a tenderloin of elk for dinner (verdict: sweet and delicious).
One memory from 1976 was the discovery of a sweet little church in the woods—the Church of the Holy Mount—so we decided to seek it out on this trip. The church is still there, though somewhat enlarged, and now with the town of Ruidoso all around it. The view of Sierra Blanca over the altar is still as breathtaking as we had remembered it. No wonder the legend over the front door of the church is from the Psalms: “I will lift my eyes to the hills.”
Inside the church we found a new addition—a wooden statue of San Miguel, carved by a local artist. The sculptor rendered his own local vision of Revelation 12:9—the “satan” whom San Miguel is vanquishing is a western rattlesnake, whose eyes are fixed squarely on those who come to view the sculpture.
More of our “finds” to follow.
2 comments:
Hi, I am new to NB....moved in the day of Hermine. But wanted to tell you that October 1976, my hubby and I married. No honeymoon, too poor. But for our 30th anniversary, we rented a cabin in Ruidoso and visited the Inn for the first time. I was enchanted with the whole area. We took our motorcycle and toured the mountain roads.
Just wanted to wave hello and tell you that I am following your blog. Sure hoping for some gardening tips as this gardener has moved from 7b to 8b and is fascinated.
Cyndye B
Thanks for the kind words--and sorry for the prolonged absence. Work interfered! The winter garden is coming along, and I'll try to post something on it soon.
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