Barbecue

Barbecue is a serious subject for discussion, and not only in Texas. The decision of which wood to use, how long to smoke, which meat is best to barbecue, and whether or not to use sauce can evoke spirited responses if not downright hostility.

So what does Texas Monthly magazine do? This year, instead of listing the top five barbecue joints in Texas (as is their custom), the editors opted for naming the single best source for barbecue in 2008. The winner? Snow’s in Lexington, Texas http://www.snowsbbq.com/. Do you think that decision elicited any controversy?

I first heard of Snow’s in a rather unlikely place—not Texas Monthly but The New Yorker! Since the latter publication is not wont to publicize anything west of the Hudson (and certainly not eating establishments) there seemed to be a story just in the fact that The New Yorker thought that their readers would find the subject of interest.

And whom did the editors choose to investigate this eruption in the world of barbecue? None other than Calvin Trillin—and that decision was provocative as well. The New Yorker often turns to Trillin for food articles because he is witty and urbane, and because he writes well. He is also from Kansas City. And, from having lived in greater Kansas City myself for 22 years, I can tell you that people in Kansas City believe that even if they did not invent barbecue, they perfected it.

Of course the same can be said for Tennessee, North Carolina, Louisiana, and countless other places—all of whom think that their barbecue is the non plus ultra. The difference is, none of those locales have a Calvin Trillin to serve as their spokesman. You can imagine that Trillin came to Snow’s prepared to scoff, and his article—though up to his usual literary standards—does not disappoint. See for yourself:
http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2008/11/24/081124fa_fact_trillin

Of course, I had to see for myself as well. My report on Snow’s will follow.