It would be an unfair generalization to say that no one had heard of Snow’s Barbecue before the article in Texas Monthly. We can assume that an article in The New Yorker would have little impact on business (or “bidness” as it is pronounced in Central Texas) since the circulation of the latter magazine is poor to none around Lexington, Texas. But the notice in the esteemed Texas Monthly created unparalleled interest in the small, local eatery, and the editors could sense what was to come. As Calvin Trillin reports, when the editor of Texas Monthly told the staff at Snow’s about their elevation into the pantheon of barbecue, he said, “Congratulations, and I’m sorry.” He knew what the result would be.
Snow’s is open one day each week. Actually, that is too generous. Snow’s is open Saturday mornings. The staff, led by pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz (is there a word “pitmistress”?) work during the night each Friday for the opening of the joint each Saturday at 8:00 am. There is already a line of hungry customers when the doors are thrown open. The entire 800 lbs. of smoked meat is gone by 10:00 or 11:00, and the shop closes up for another week.
Obviously, I had to see (and taste) for myself. Our son assembled a group from his office for the pilgrimage to Lexington (just east of Elgin, in Lee County). We met in Austin at 7:30, which meant that we left home (for barbecue!) at 6:30 am. Sure enough, when we arrived, there was a line out the door, and the tables outside the store, nestled next to the still-operating smokers, were filled with happy eaters enjoying barbecue for breakfast.
I opted for beef brisket, for after reading one of the judges’ comments that the brisket was “soft and sweet as cookie dough,” I just had to give it the taste test. It was, in fact, excellent, though I don’t think memories of chocolate chip cookies came to mind as I made my sandwich (white bread is de rigeur) from the meat we had purchased. The smoky flavor permeates the meat, and to call it tender would be an understatement. One of our group asked me if I had sampled the chicken, and I owned that I had not (wondering if the question was an invitation to sample the spread of chicken in front of him). He then said, “you’ve got to try this” and I did. My, my, I can’t imagine why Calvin Trillin did not write about the chicken—moist, succulent, and smoked all the way to the bone. I’ve grilled chicken and smoked chicken, and I know that one of the big challenges is to get chicken done without allowing it to get tough. This chicken was—dare I say?—perfect.
Snow’s is definitely one-of-a-kind. If your mouth is watering, you might want to refer to the earlier post with the link to The New Yorker article and a link to Snow’s website. I think it is safe to say that this humble shop did not have a website prior to the designation of top barbecue joint in Texas for 2008 of the 341 reviewed.
Snow’s is open one day each week. Actually, that is too generous. Snow’s is open Saturday mornings. The staff, led by pitmaster Tootsie Tomanetz (is there a word “pitmistress”?) work during the night each Friday for the opening of the joint each Saturday at 8:00 am. There is already a line of hungry customers when the doors are thrown open. The entire 800 lbs. of smoked meat is gone by 10:00 or 11:00, and the shop closes up for another week.
Obviously, I had to see (and taste) for myself. Our son assembled a group from his office for the pilgrimage to Lexington (just east of Elgin, in Lee County). We met in Austin at 7:30, which meant that we left home (for barbecue!) at 6:30 am. Sure enough, when we arrived, there was a line out the door, and the tables outside the store, nestled next to the still-operating smokers, were filled with happy eaters enjoying barbecue for breakfast.
I opted for beef brisket, for after reading one of the judges’ comments that the brisket was “soft and sweet as cookie dough,” I just had to give it the taste test. It was, in fact, excellent, though I don’t think memories of chocolate chip cookies came to mind as I made my sandwich (white bread is de rigeur) from the meat we had purchased. The smoky flavor permeates the meat, and to call it tender would be an understatement. One of our group asked me if I had sampled the chicken, and I owned that I had not (wondering if the question was an invitation to sample the spread of chicken in front of him). He then said, “you’ve got to try this” and I did. My, my, I can’t imagine why Calvin Trillin did not write about the chicken—moist, succulent, and smoked all the way to the bone. I’ve grilled chicken and smoked chicken, and I know that one of the big challenges is to get chicken done without allowing it to get tough. This chicken was—dare I say?—perfect.
Snow’s is definitely one-of-a-kind. If your mouth is watering, you might want to refer to the earlier post with the link to The New Yorker article and a link to Snow’s website. I think it is safe to say that this humble shop did not have a website prior to the designation of top barbecue joint in Texas for 2008 of the 341 reviewed.
1 comment:
Boy, my mouth is watering as I read through your review!
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